El aceite de palma al descubierto: verdades y mitos

Palm oil forms, together with soybean oil and rapeseed oil, the list of the three most consumed oils domestically throughout the world. The idea that palm oil is bad has led many citizens to do without it in recent years. However, it still continues to have a large presence in the food industry (from prepared food to industrial pastries and snacks).

What is palm oil?

This product is very far from belonging to the Mediterranean diet, so the first thing is to clarify where palm oil comes from. Diana Ansorena, professor of Nutrition and Bromatology at the University of Navarra, and member of the Spanish Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics, points out that it is produced from the fruits of the African palm. Specifically, “it is obtained by extracting the fat from the fruit and seeds of the plants. Elaeis guineensis and Elaeis oleifera”.

In crude oil, palm oil contains high amounts of carotenoids and tocopherols. But it is reduced during refining.

Also has high content of saturated fatty acids: almost 50%, mainly palmitic.

The food industry takes advantage of the fact that palm oil does not add flavor to add it to sweet and savory products. PHOTO: Getty.

Differences between palm oil and palm fat

Palm fat is not the same as palm oil, although both come from the same plant: the oil palm (not to be confused with other types of palm tree, such as the date palm).

Ansorena explains that “technically, palm oil is what is extracted from the fruit. However, the one extracted from the palm kernel is called palm kernel or palm fat. In the first, the ratio between saturated and unsaturated fats is 1/1; while in the second, it is 3/1. Therefore, the latter is less healthy than the former.”

Is palm oil sustainable?

The sustainability of oil palm cultivation is one of the most controversial issues of this plant. The problem it poses for the environment is that, as Ansorena assures, «the oil palm needs certain characteristics for its growth, such as high temperatures and availability of water, in addition to fertile soils and sunlight.»

Of course, all of the above is possible under normal demand conditions. However the global increase in demand has forced agricultural overexploitation. It has gone to the extreme of destroying large areas of jungle to convert them into palm crops. This deforestationespecially serious in regions such as Indonesia, it irreversibly threatens biodiversity, alters the livelihoods of indigenous communities and contributes to global warming through the emission of greenhouse gases resulting from the burning of plant material.

Social pressure in the face of this disaster has motivated slow change in the food industry. In many cases, alternative fats are sought that maintain the sponginess and organoleptic properties provided by palm oil. But above all, by fats that do not have a bad press, such as sunflower or high oleic sunflower oil.

In other cases, it is sought to ensure that this ingredient from plantations has not contributed to deforestation. “In fact, Sustainable Production Certificates for palm oil are being given, especially in Malaysia and Indonesia, the main producers,” says the expert. In 2004, the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) was formed, with the presence of the main companies in the food industry. Since that date, RSPO Sustainability Certifications have been granted, although they are still insufficient.

Large oil palm plantations cause deforestation. PHOTO: Kelly on Pexels.

But then, is palm oil bad for your health?

Health authorities conclude that, although it cannot be considered toxic or clearly harmful, there are much healthier alternatives for regular use, such as olive oil. “The consumption of palm oil in moderate quantities and within the framework of a varied and balanced diet does not represent a risk to health. When worse effects have been seen compared to control groups on cardiovascular disease, it has been when comparing diets rich in monounsaturated fatty acids, such as olive oil,” declares the professor at the University of Navarra.

In that sense, the Spanish Agency for Food Safety and Nutrition (AESAN) points out that As of today, there are no food safety reasons that justify a ban.. Although it clarifies that this type of fat is not recommended in the context of a healthy diet.

Disadvantages of this oil

In the opinion of Diana Ansorena, the main drawbacks of palm oil are “the environmental repercussions if it is not produced under sustainable conditions and the increase in the fraction of saturated fats in foods, which should not exceed 10% of the total daily energy.” ”.

Ice cream with palm oil
Palm oil makes ice cream take longer to melt, which is why it has been one of the basic ingredients of this product in recent years. PHOTO: Sheri Silver on Unsplash.

Benefits of palm oil for the food industry

For years this oil has helped the food industry multiply its commercial proposals, from baby products to salty snacks. The reasons for this use have to do with the fact that “the most used presentation (refining) It does not add flavor, is very stable and does not go rancid or oxidize easily.. It also provides a solid texture and does not need to be hydrogenated, which is why it has replaced partially hydrogenated fats in many foods, which are a source of trans fats of industrial origin,” according to the AESAN.

From these properties, Ansorena deduces the three benefits of palm oil that the food industry uses the most:

  • Stability. This allows reducing the use of antioxidants, and therefore, additives.
  • Neutral taste and smell. It is suitable for different food groups.
  • Solid texture at room temperature. This is not achieved with other types of oils and opens the doors to greater versatility of uses. It even maintains these properties when temperatures rise, which is why it is used in foods that are going to be fried or that are intended to be preserved at higher temperatures.

On the other hand, the professor highlights that «in some studies the positive effects of certain bioactives obtained from palm oil (tocotrienols) on chronic inflammation and cardiovascular diseases have been seen.»

Is palm oil carcinogenic?

To this question, Ansorena categorically answers that “There is no evidence that palm oil is carcinogenic.. «It does not increase the prevalence of cancer in human studies.» Now, “we must not lose sight of the fact that the WHO recommends that between 20% and 35% of the total kilocalories in the diet should come from fats. And within this group of macronutrients, the intake of saturated fatty acids should not exceed 10% of total energy.”

What foods contain palm oil?

Although many products have been modified to avoid its use, it is still present, especially in industrial pastries. These are some of the products that usually contain palm oil:

  • Creams and coverages. The explanation is simple: it melts at a higher temperature than chocolate and that makes it easier to maintain and store.
  • Spreads. Its high saturated fat content makes it easy to spread. It is also used in cocoa creams and margarines.
  • Cakes, cookies, toasts and industrial pastries.. It acts as a substitute for fully or partially hydrogenated fats and butter.
  • Pre-cooked. In this case they take advantage of Its price is lower than that of other oils and it does not go rancid.
  • French fries and appetizers. Because it holds up to more frying than other fats. In Spain, especially in recent years, the trend is to use high oleic sunflower oil or olive oil instead.

Palm oil or coconut oil, which is better?

Diana Ansorena assures that “in relation to the effect on the health of each of these types of oils, there is no evidence of major differences between the two. In any case, the important thing is to reduce the consumption of saturated fats and both oils are very rich in them.” For this reason, the ideal is to usually select products without this type of fat and use olive oil, and even better, extra virgin, both for dressing and cooking.

The ALDI Council

World consumption of olive oil is far below that of others, such as soybean, rapeseed or palm oil. However, due to its composition it is much healthier than others. Try to have it as the preferred oil for use in the kitchen.

Diana Ansorena

Diana Ansorena. She has a degree in Pharmacy from the University of Navarra and a doctorate from the same university (Extraordinary Doctorate Award). After a 2-year postdoctoral stay at the University of Ghent (Belgium), she rejoined the University of Navarra thanks to a contract from the Ramón y Cajal program. She is currently a Professor of Nutrition and Bromatology and teaches in the degrees and postgraduate programs of the Faculty of Pharmacy and Nutrition of the University of Navarra. She is coordinator of the doctoral program in Food, Physiology and Health. As a researcher, she has participated in national and regional projects related to the evaluation and improvement of the nutritional and healthy quality of foods. Among other lines of research, he has dedicated himself to the study of the lipid fraction of foods (stability, design of functional foods, systems for incorporating bioactive compounds in foods and reformulation strategies for meat and bakery products), with the aim of contribute to improving the health of the population. She is co-author of more than 100 publications in high-impact journals and book chapters in prestigious publishers. She is a member of editorial committees and reviewer of magazines in the Food Science and Technology area.

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